Tag Archives: Football

Peru, Week Five

I went back to the Hogar on Monday because I knew that there weren’t going to be any other volunteers and they need all the help they can get. In the afternoon, I went to the Arariwa office, but like last Monday, there was basically nobody there.

Tuesday followed a similar pattern to Monday, but after work I stayed in the city to watch Peru play Chile. They’re pretty fanatical here (the previous week’s 2-2 draw vs Argentina was celebrated like a trophy) and almost all restaurants and bars had the game on – either on TV or radio. They scored a late equaliser, but still went on to lose; something they are a bit too used to. 

On Wednesday I joined Sankiyo on a long trip to a village near Urcos. We set off at 2pm by bus and then travelled the last couple of miles by motorbike. I thought he was joking when he first told me, but he borrowed it from a friend when we got to Urcos. 

The meeting followed a similar pattern to one from the previous week and dragged on even longer, so we didn’t get home until 9pm. A seven hour round trip for little reward.  

I didn’t even venture out of the house on Thursday, for two main reasons. First was because of the cold I almost certainly picked up from the kids at the Hogar; second was the weather, which has taken a turn for the worse recently:​

​​On Friday Paula and I returned to the rural village near Chinchero to make another cocina. We helped make the first one a fortnight ago, but this time it was all us! All things considered I think we can be pretty pleased with our efforts!

Saturday was a big day for Arariwa as it was their Día de Confraternizacion de la Familia Arariwa (the annual staff party). I joined them at 8:30am, after meeting up with our Spanish school at 6:30am to visit a local market (it’s only on until 8am on Saturdays). 

The staff party meant that all of Arariwa’s different offices come together for a day of fun, involving sports, food, drink and dancing. Most people brought their families and we were lucky to get some beautiful weather for the occasion. 

It was an amazing setting and we started with each office parading around while everyone else applauded. Different offices went to different amounts of effort, but one person actually dressed up as the Arariwa pig:
The main focus of the morning was the sports – football and volleyball in particular – and this was the venue:

The football was tricky for a few reasons: the pitch was very small for 6-a-side; I didn’t know the rules from the start (can only score from in the final third, can’t throw to people in certain positions etc); and my team wasn’t very good (age and temperament were against us). 

Nonetheless, our match started well enough. I set up a goal that was disallowed (and I still don’t know why) and then scored one of my own, so it was 1-0 at half-time. At this point we changed goalkeepers to accommodate Sankiyo’s late arrival and he took the blame for what happened in the second half, (which I thought was very unfair). 

A combination of fatigue and a couple of decisions going against us led to two of our players losing their heads (one was booked for retaliation) and basically giving up, so we finished as frustrated 4-1 losers. 

I was immediately called on to the volleyball court to join the girls. It seems to be a really popular sport here and I wasn’t really up to speed with all the positions and tactics, but that didn’t stop me from becoming a crowd favourite after a fun couple of minutes. 

It started with me chasing a high ball on to the adjacent football pitch to keep it alive (I ran through both crowds and about 10m on to the pitch). We won the point and everyone seemed to enjoy my enthusiasm. The next point I ended up doing a full length dive to keep the ball in the air and they loved that too. Soon after, I shouted my name as I was going for a high ball, which made everyone laugh, and then for the next couple of minutes they were all chanting my name!

We won the first match easily, but came unstuck in the second. This led to some more ill-feeling and barbed comments between the players. During our second game we had to stop as a fight broke out on the adjacent football pitch. Everyone was having a great time. 

For me, worse than losing in both sports was that I’d actually got pretty sunburnt by this point, so I was grateful when we went inside for lunch. The food was good and the beer was flowing. 

After lunch it was all about the dancing. Again, every office entered a team and they performed one after another. The outfits were all very colourful and there had clearly been a lot of effort put into the routines. 

Afterwards we went into Cusco and I got a couple of snaps of the full moon:

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Peru, Week Four

This was probably the quietest week of my whole trip so far – partly by design – but I did include a video for you at the end.

As far as “work” goes, we switched to afternoons, but that didn’t mean we had any more to do. On Monday, I was alone in the office for most of the afternoon. Sankiyo (the colleague I’ve been paired with) didn’t come in at all, so I eventually left at 6:30pm having done nothing more than browse the internet.

On Tuesday, Jessenia took me and Sankiyo out for lunch – me, for helping her daughter with her English studies last week, and Sankiyo because he turned 40 over the weekend. We went to a chicharroneria because I said I liked chicharrón in Pisac last week.

Afterwards we went to a small local shop (run by an Arariwa client) and sat down to drink a beer. Four beers later, we headed home and that was my day’s “work”.

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With Sankiyo and Jessenia

On Wednesday I met up with Sankiyo at 2:30pm and we travelled to Urcos. We arrived at 4:20pm (for what he assured me would be an hour-long meeting – which would allow him to attend his 7pm English class), but as it turned out, we didn’t finish until about 7:30pm and I finally got home at 9:30pm. The meeting itself was a “closure”, which meant that the group were making their final payments for the loan cycle, as well as doing all the admin for the next cycle. It was quite interesting to observe but I was nothing more than a spectator.

On Thursday I visited another project, at a Young Mothers’ Centre, or Hogar (home), where Emmanuelle was volunteering.

There are ten mothers in the early/mid-teens living there with their babies. The volunteers help out wherever they can, mainly looking after the babies while the girls do other things like go to school, learn skills or just have some time for themselves. It was an eye-opener, even without knowing the stories of the individual girls.

Although I only went to pay the centre a visit, I ended up staying for a couple of hours. 

On Friday, we had planned to go back to Chinchero to make another cocina (stove), but when that was cancelled I decided to go back to the Hogar. I was there from 9am until 2pm, at which point we all had pizza because it was the last day for all three of the other volunteers.

Aside from “work”, I had two more Spanish lessons during the week – I feel like I’ve been given a lot of the tools now, it’s just a case of putting the time in to study and practice.

I had two free mornings where I’d planned to go running, but we had no water in the house so I didn’t.

On Saturday morning I went to the city centre to watch the girls from the Hogar in a parade. There seems to be one every weekend and the effort that goes into them is really impressive, particularly with the outfits.  

I had an early start on Sunday as I went out to watch sunrise above the city. It clouded over while I was waiting for the 5:20am sunrise, but I still managed to get these pictures:
In the afternoon I went to watch Cusco’s main football team, Cienciano, after seeing the game advertised here:

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Even though they’re in the second division at the moment and Real Garcilaso are in the top division, Ciencano are still the most popular side. They’re the oldest team in the country (founded as the science department of the university, hence the name, in 1901) and have won two South American trophies.

Estadio Inca Garcilaso de la Vega

The game itself was very one-sided and the away side just coming to defend – sometimes this makes for a boring spectacle but Union Huaral weren’t very good at it and Cienciano scored twice early. They could/should have scored several more goals before they finally got a third near the end – I got it on video!

In addition to the game, there were some other notable things:

We sat near the back of the west stand in front of these guys, most of whom were reporting on the match all the way through – check out the old school phone in the top right

www.soschildrensvillages.org.uk

There was a collection for a charity that I support and that Manchester City captain Vincent Kompany is a patron of: SOS Children’s Villages http://www.soschildrensvillages.org.uk

I couldn’t resist buying meat and potato on a stick from the food sellers in the stands

Peru, Week Three

As with last week, this one got better as it went on (lots of pictures below!), but Week Three in Cusco got off to a particularly strange start.

We arrived at the Arariwa office on Monday morning and gathered in the conference room with the other staff for another talk – the topic this week was “identity and self-esteem”. What we didn’t expect was that we would start with 20 minutes of stretching, followed by giving each other massages (shoulders, neck and head). Everyone was a little uncomfortable, so it nice that when the person in charge talked about grabbing your partner’s hair there were a few jokes at my expense. After that, we each stuck paper to our backs and mingled so that everyone could write “anonymous” positive comments about each other (the only one of mine I remember was deportista). 

I went to another Spanish lesson in the afternoon and Maria introduced the imperative verb form (used for giving orders/instructions). The information is coming thick and fast in these lessons and I’m not finding much time in between to study what I’ve learnt. 

On Tuesday morning, we had our much anticipated meeting with the boss, Señor Hugo, in a bid to clarify our role and decide how best we could help. We agreed that from next week we would start working mostly in the afternoons, because this is when the most important and interesting work happens (as opposed to the mornings when it’s just administration and paperwork). It’s a step in the right direction and should be more interesting, but I’m still not really sure how we can contribute. He also gave us a mandate to research different revenue streams – me using my European contacts (!) and Paula using her North American ones… does anyone have any ideas?!

I stayed on in the afternoon to accompany Sankiyo on his visit to the rural community of Andahualyillas. I was ready to leave at 1pm for the 2pm meeting, but for various reasons we set off at 2:30pm and arrived at 4pm. Neither of the two groups were particularly pleased, but Sankiyo handled it well and we collected the loan repayments we had come for. 

My role was limited to counting the money And making change, but I was also more than happy to look after this little guy for the first group leader:

He’s the size of my hand!

After the work was done, Sankiyo had an errand to run at the town’s police station, which meant we didn’t get home until 8pm. I did, however, see this arco iris:

Work was typically quiet on Wednesday morning and I had another Spanish lesson in the afternoon. In the evening, I returned to the Arariwa office to tutor the eight year old daughter of one of my  colleagues. Marcia was extremely polite and keen to learn English, but after 90 minutes I had to call it a night. She had a test the next day, so let’s hope it helped!

On Thursday I arrived in the office early and was immediately asked if I wanted to tag along with Sankiyo and Leidy to their client visits in Huaro and Urcos. The bus ride there was notable for the guy who lectured us about being eating healthily for 45 minutes. I wonder if he sold any of the ginseng products he was peddling. 

Once in Huaro, we made a few planned stops to clients who had outstanding payments, but also bumped into several other clients around town. It was nice to see that Arariwa had such a big presence in the community. 

This was my office for the day

This growling dog stood between us and our client

We also visited a local museum; so what was supposed to be a two-hour trip took more than twice as long. Rather than going back to the office, it was time for lunch, which meant I was done for the day (and the week). 

That evening I was invited to Mila’s house for dinner with Nic and the other volunteers, Paula and Emmanuelle. It was nice to have everyone together and, during the conversation around the dinner table, the possibility of helping on another project arose…

…So that’s exactly what we did on Friday. The five of us met up early and travelled to Chinchero by taxi, bus and then another taxi. We met a local family who we would be helping to build a stove for. The bricks, tiles, mud and tools were waiting for us and there was a local man with the expertise to show us how to do it. It was a very satisfying experience as we got our hands dirty (literally) for the first time in Peru. 

Before

After

The family seemed appreciative of our efforts and we ate potatoes together after we’d finished. Everyone except me went home afterwards, but I decided to use my Boleto Turístico to visit Chinchero’s Parque Arqueológico. On my own and without a guide, I don’t think I got the best out of the ruins, but I did stumble across a lovely walk along an Inca trail:

On Saturday I went along to the early morning football game again. There were quite a few different players this week and the average age was bit lower. We played six-a-side, which was a bit too congested really. Because of my plans for the rest of the day, I volunteered to play in goal for the last hour or so and I managed to snap a picture:

After football I went for my first 10k run of my trip, inspired by my cousin Claire, who was running a marathon the next day (she smashed it by the way, well done Claire!)

I felt pretty tired after that but my Boleto Turístico wasn’t valid after the weekend, so I had to get out and about.  

I started at the Museo Historico Regional, which was quite interesting, particularly in respect of two main figures in Peruvian history, Túpac Amaru II and Garcilaso de la Vega

Painting that depicts the execution of Túpac Amaru in Plaza de Armas, Cusco

I moved on to the Museo de Arte Contemporáneo and realised that I don’t understand/appreciate modern art. My favourite pieces all had a clear subject:I went to Museo de Sitio de Qorikancha, but I was underwhelmed by the small museum containing fragments of artefacts and some skulls. As the sky was starting to darken, I went to the Monumento de Pachacutec:

I left early on Sunday to get to Ollantaytambo and had a nice morning stroll around the ruins. Still inspired by my recent hikes, I followed a path away from the other tourists and climbed up to get a birds eye view of the town. 

I treated myself to a meaty pizza for lunch and then headed up the other side of the valley to Pinkullyuna. 

Afterwards I wanted to go to Moray as the last thing on my ticket, but this is where my lack of planning caught up with me. I took collectivos from Ollantaytambo to Urubamba and then to Maras, but I was still 9km away. While I was contemplating what to do, I was able to get these pictures:

Plaza de Armas in Maras

Because every post needs a dog (apparently)

In the end I negotiated a taxi to take me to Moray and wait 40 minutes to bring me back again; and it worked out well: 

Peru, Week Two

This blog is a little bit back to front, chronologically, but as my weekend exploits dominate this post, I’ll start there. 

Sightseeing

On Friday I met up with Paula and Emmanuelle (she’s volunteering in another local project) at lunchtime and we each bought a Boleto Turistico that’s valid for ten days and 14 sites. 

We booked on to a guided tour for that afternoon, which started at Qorikancha (an extra S/15) in the town centre and then took us by bus to four other sites: Saqsayhuaman, Q’enqo, Puka Pukara and Tambomachay. 

View from Qorikancha on to Jardin Sagrado and Av El Sol

Our guide, Carlos, explaining that Cusco is the centre of the world

Shapes in the night sky

View from Q’enqo over a cloudy Cusco

Sunset from Puka Pukara

 

On Saturday I joined Emmanuelle, a keen hiker, on a trip to Tipón. After the 40 minute public bus journey from Cusco to Choquepata, most people get a bus or taxi up to Tipón itself, but we decided to walk up to the entrance to the Parque Arqueológico. Once there, we took our time exploring the site, as opposed to the organised tour groups who had to rush around. 

The view as we walked up to Tipón


On Sunday, I met up with Emmanuelle again and we made an early start as we set off for Pisac at 7am. We were at the entrance to this Parque Arqueológico for 8:15am and barely saw another person on the hike until 11am. It was a beautiful walk in the Sacred Valley and made me think I should do this sort of thing more often. 

This little guy joined us for nearly four hours


Once we got back to the town, we had lunch in Pisac’s famous market and then found a bar to try the local speciality, chicha morada, before heading home for a well earned rest.

Arariwa

Unfortunately, there isn’t much to say about my volunteering at Arariwa in Cusco yet. Paula and I haven’t really got started and it’s hard to see how it’s going to change much – even though we’re here for nine and three months respectively. 

Still, on Monday we were invited to a talk about food and healthy eating for the office staff (most of whom I hadn’t seen before). It lasted for two hours (a good challenge for my Spanish ear) and it seems like it’s the third talk of six – so I know what to expect on the next few Monday mornings.

On Wednesday I took the opportunity to go with Paula and Rosario to visit a potential new client. Nothing really happened but it was good to be out of the office for the first time and interesting to see where he lived.
Paula and I spoke to Mila – who’s helping to coordinate our volunteering project – about our first couple of weeks and we’ve arranged a meeting with el jefe for next week. Fingers crossed it helps!

Spanish classes

This week I had three 2-hour classes: on Monday, Tuesday and Thursday. I really like the classes here – they’re varied, challenging and the teachers are both good (Maria and Laura alternate by the week). 

For the linguists out there, I’ve been working on three different forms of the past tense as well as direct/indirect object pronouns.

Other

I ran to and from Mila’s office for Wednesday’s meeting and it was a little traumatic because I was chased by a group of dogs for about 100m! I’d seen them before and they ignored me, but this time a little one didn’t like the look of me and got excited, then all the others joined in. 

On Saturday, I joined about 15 guys (including some from Arariwa) at 7:30am for their weekly 5-a-side football game. We started with two teams of 5, which increased as more people arrived until we had enough for three teams of 5; then the winning team stayed on the pitch, while the losing team replaced was replaced by the resting team.

A lot of the players were, how should I say, past their prime (my 40 year old colleague was calling them papi), but there was some reasonable talent on display. My team finished unbeaten (and therefore didn’t have a break), even though I consciously didn’t break into a sprint during the 90 minutes (I figure my 20 year head start was enough of an advantage). 

Bolivia Extra

The last post was basically an overview, but while I’m blogging and have some free time (and after several nice comments) I thought I’d add a few extra details.


My first day in La Paz was the first time I’ve really been affected by the altitude – it’s higher than the Himalayan trek I did in 2009. Jupapina is a couple of hundred metres lower, but even a few stairs can leave you out of breath. Unfortunately, I don’t think living in the Andes is going to make me a superfit runner as it’s just too high, but daily life is easily manageable if you take it easy.

Apart from that, the weather is pretty much perfect and incredibly consistent. There’s rarely a cloud in the sky and every day has been nice and warm. Out of the sun, the temperature drops pretty sharply to about 0°C at night.


The day before I started my volunteering, I went to a football match at Estadio Hernando Siles (the world’s highest international football stadium and subject of some controversy).

It was a La Paz derby in the cup, Bolivar vs The Strongest – the latter is my adopted team because:

  1. the name!
  2. their colours are the same as my university and work teams’
  3. they seemed popular with the kids around the city
  4. they have a player called Pablo Escobar
  5. this was how the fans arrived 90 minutes before kick off:


The match itself was a bit disappointing; the pitch made it difficult to play decent football and the players definitely tired in the second half. It finished 0-0 and went straight to penalties, with The Strongest winning the shootout 3-0. It’s safe to say that the fans outshone the players.


I’m based in Jupapina with the Mendoza family (who run Up Close Bolivia). There’s a large family house, 3 smaller houses for volunteers and work-aways and then a campsite on the same grounds. I share a house with Danny, who’s worked here for two years, although we don’t seem to see that much of each other.

The Children’s Centre and Albergue are a 10 minute drive away in Mallasa (20p by bus or £1 by taxi), whilst Porvenir is just a 5 minute walk down to the bottom of the valley.

It hasn’t been the completely immersive experience I’d been pre-warned about because everyone at Casa Mendoza speaks English. I’m going to have to push myself harder to get as much Spanish conversation in as possible before I go to Peru in September.

I don’t think Bolivia wins many culinary awards, although I’m getting by so far. One of my first meals in La Paz was this very big but very thin beef steak with eggs, on top of mounds of rice and potatoes.

On my first day in Jupapina I was invited to have lunch in Casa Mendoza with the family and workers. I’d already mentioned that I had a dodgy stomach and no appetite that day and that wasn’t helped when they served stomach as the main course (I wasn’t the only one who didn’t eat it!) The next night we went to the local pizza place, which was really good, and I’ve also eaten nice meals at a couple of upmarket places in San Miguel (Italian and Indian). I haven’t done much in my own kitchen yet (no change there), but the fruit and veg here is really good.

Speaking of San Miguel, I discovered the MegaCentre on Saturday. It has all sorts of things in addition to the standard shops and food court, such as bowling, ice skating, paintball and we watched Jason Bourne in the most luxury cinema I’ve ever been in.

Finally, I should say that I played chess against a one-eyed man outside a local shop. He’s there most days and I’d spoken to him a couple of times before we played. Which reminds me, we’re due a rematch.